Vintry Wine Bar: downtown wine, beer and snacks

Vintry Wine Bar

Vintry Wine Bar

As we continue our exploration of Manhattan’s Financial District, our new home neighborhood, we cannot avoid the hub of drinking and eating that is Stone Street.  A historical district, it is now a draw for tourists during the day and financial industry workers during happy hour.  We have already eaten (and drunk) a couple of times at the Dubliner, a nice traditional New York Irish bar in the district.

On one of our recent stops in the area to bring some boxes to our new apartment, we found ourselves in need of some sustenance, and started walking down Stone Street, sizing up the street and looking to pick out somewhere to eat.  When we saw Vintry Wine Bar, we remembered that our realty agent Julien, whose office is not far away on Wall Street, had told us that Vintry is his favorite place to eat on Stone Street.  So with that endorsement in mind, we decided to give it a try.

Like all the establishments on that street, Vintry has some tables outside, but we decided to sit inside.  The interior is dedicated in a very hip style, with backless bar stools even at the tables, which are also bar stool height.  Not my favorite setup, but I thought, ok, I’ll give it a try.

The menu is mostly drinks – wine, whiskey and then on the last page, beer.  There is a single sheet of paper that you might miss if you weren’t looking for it that lists food choices – small plates, charcuterie, cheeses, and desserts.  For our first time, we ordered a plate of Spanish Serrano ham, some tuna tartare and lobster dumblings.  As usual, I asked and the waitress checked and confirmed that these choices all were dairy free.

For my drink, I ordered a bottle of Corsendonck brown ale.  At 750 mls or about 24 ounces, that would seem to be a lot of beer, but really it is about equivalent to 2 regular bottles of American beer.  I love Corsendonck, so I knew I would have no trouble finishing it.

The food we chose was great.  The one thing that didn’t seem to go too well with my beer was the lobster slider, but I still ate a couple of them.  And I must say, those three selections were plenty of food.  We might have been able to squeeze in a fourth – and there are many other delicious-sounding choices that appear like they would also be completely dairy-free – but we were happy to walk away after our three.

The one thing we couldn’t figure out about this bar (other than the bar stool height tables, I guess) was the high ratio of staff to customers.  Many bars with waiter service – take the aforementioned Dubliners, for example – might have one bartender and one or at most two waiters for a huge room or series of rooms as well as an outdoor terrace.  Vintry is a small room with a fairly small bar and just a couple of tables outside, and they have about 6 people working there, four of whom are dedicated to the bar area.  I don’t get it, but if all 6 people can make a living off of the fairly small size of the clientele, then good for them.

Posted in Dairy-free, Dinner, NYC Restaurants, Restaurants, Reviews, Wine bars | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Leo’s Bagels: the place to keep my vorepanemophobia in check

Leo's Bagels

Leo’s Bagels

How thrilled Therese and I were when we discovered that mere steps from our new apartment building in the Financial District is a first-rate bagel shop, Leo’s Bagels.  Literally our first meal as inhabitants of the new apartment (we haven’t completely moved in yet, but let’s not be sticklers, shall we?) was some big fat bagels from Leo’s lathered with (in my case) dairy free cream cheese-like spread, washed down with a bottle of cold caffeinated beverage.

As for the long Latin word you are all puzzling over in my title, it is my attempt at coming up with something meaning “the fear of eating bread” which is an affliction spreading like wildfire through our culture as we search for culprits in the increasing waistline of Americans.  Bread has been such a staple for me for so long, and bagels are one of the true blessings of living in New York – ok, other parts of the country and even cities in other countries (ahem, Montreal) make decent ones nowadays, but bagels are as much a part of the fabric of New York City as pizza and pastrami sandwiches (hmmm, bread is a vital part of those things as well…).

It is a shame if the bagel is crucified on the altar of promoting health, as something irredeemably bad for us.  But I understand that some folks are suffering, and giving up can be the easiest way for them to get back on the road to better health.

We also wish to see the increase of our waistlines cease, so we will be restraining our impulse to eat at Leo’s every day.  All the more reason to cherish their fat little bread sandwiches when we do indulge.  I leave you with a much better Latin word (equally as bogus as the first one I introduced you to above): Panemophilia.  I think you can figure out what it means.  It is what is coursing through my veins, but especially in my heart and mind, as I chew through one of Leo’s lovely bagels.

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Lisbon, Day One: unofficial guided tour, lunch at O Piteu

Lisbon, Day One

Lisbon, Day One

As promised previously, here is the start to the saga of our incredible trip to Portugal.  The picture above of the lovely azulejo mural in Restaurante O Piteu gives you a small taste of what a great day it was.  Our lunch there was wonderful, but lots happened before we got there!

We had arranged to meet Nina Clara Tiesler, our hostess, at a little cafe called Parreinrinha de Sao Vicente, so upon arriving in Lisbon airport, we made our way through customs and got a taxi, showing the driver the address and hoping he wouldn’t try to pull any funny business.  Well, he took us where we asked him to go, but when we paid for our 11 Euro fare with a 20 Euro bill, he only gave 2 Euros in change, thinking we wouldn’t notice.  Unfortunately, this was not the last time a taxi driver tried to rip us off – a rare negative in a trip that was overwhelmingly wonderful.  Anyway, we did notice what was happening, we argued with him, he gave in and gave us the proper change, lecturing us in Portuguese the whole time.

We found a seat in the cafe, luggage in tow, and waited for Nina.  Therese ordered a coffee.  Nina came after a couple of minutes and before leaving the cafe, got us a couple of rolls – the cafe has fresh bread baked on the premises that is dirt cheap – 4 rolls cost just a little more than a Euro.

From there we walked just around the corner to the apartment building and got into the tiny elevator with our luggage, and there we were, in the Rosa Residence, our first vacation apartment rented through Airbnb.  From the first moment, we were tremendously impressed both with Nina and with the apartment.

I thought that after giving us the lay of the land, Nina would hand us the keys and we would be on our own, but this was not what was in store for us.  Over the next couple of hours, Nina gave us a tour of the neighborhood, making sure we had everything we needed!  She showed us where some local restaurants we should visit were – Dragao de Alfama, a place for Fado, and Gato Pardo, a nice little bistro where we stopped and had some iced teas.

Then we walked to where her car was, and she drove us a short distance to Rua da Graca, to show us where the markets were and also load up some cards for the public transportation (the Viva Viagem that everyone in Lisbon uses) so we could take the tram and buses and funiculars.  Nina had some cards from previous visitors that had a little bit of money still on them, but not enough to keep us going for long. The shop where we got our cards filled up, Pastelaria Estrela da Graca, was a delightful pastry shop, with some pure white delectable meringues in the window, so we resolved to come back later in the week to get some desserts!

With full metro cards in hand, Nina then walked down Rua da Graca with us to point out the butcher shops and fishmonger and produce store and the Pingo Doce supermarket where we could get everything if the other smaller stores were closed.  We were excited: the prospect of buying groceries and cooking in our apartment was thrilling.

O Piteu Restaurant

O Piteu Restaurant

Pork loin, fries and rice

Pork loin, fries and rice

Grilled fish

Grilled fish

Pot of rice

Pot of rice

Before leaving us, Nina dropped us off at the wonderful local restaurant, O Piteu.  She later told us that when her in-laws, who are restaurateurs in their own right, come to visit, they always eat at O Piteu.  We could tell that it was a quality restaurant.  I brought out my phrase letting them know about my dairy allergy, and our waiter responded in English, letting me know it would be no problem.  He gave us a real sense of professionalism, calling the restaurant “my restaurant”.  And he took care of us very well.  Therese had fish, and I had grilled pork loin, and the two of us shared a pot of rice with vegetables.  We each had a small bottle of wine – not the wisest decision, drinking wine after an international flight and no sleep, but you know, we might have been going on fumes by then, but we were having such a great time that we didn’t care.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t take our leftover wine with us! because it was very good (our first taste of wine from the Alentejo region).  But we were able to take our leftover rice with us – it formed the base for our dinner back at the apartment that night.  I already told you about our adventure getting groceries and cooking for the first time in our Alfama apartment.  It was just as much fun as I imagined it would be.

And I can’t say enough about how welcome Nina made us feel.  I’m sure I will have lots to say about her and the apartment as I continue the story of our journey.  She made herself available to us during our stay, and answered many questions, and just helped us immeasurably.  I don’t know if all Airbnb apartment owners are as helpful as Nina was, but having her as our first hostess set the bar very high for our expectations of our future Airbnb experiences!

Posted in Dairy-free, Lunch, Portugal, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments

Terri Vegan Café: Dairy Free in the Financial District

Terri Vegan Cafe

Terri Vegan Cafe

Last Saturday, Therese and I were working on our new apartment on Exchange Place in Manhattan’s Financial District, and it came time for us to go on a jaunt around the neighborhood – make a stop at the hardware store, maybe do some shopping.  But as we started walking, we realized that our number one priority should be to find something for lunch.  Lucky for us, we were walking up Pearl Street, and passed right by Terri Vegan Cafe.

Those who’ve read this blog for any length of time will know that while I am not a vegan, I was one for many years, and I am always ready to try some new good vegan food.  Therese is a good sport too about trying vegan food, especially if it includes good vegetables.

Portobello Panini

Portobello Panini

Meatball Hero Panini and Mint Green iced tea

Meatball Hero Panini and Mint Green iced tea

So Therese ordered a portobello panini, and I got a meatball hero panini, and we each got a bottle of house-brand iced tea.  And the sandwiches were quite satisfying.  My meatball hero came with an extra container of marinara sauce, to complement the marinara already on the sandwich, and at a couple moments where there was more bread than vegan meatballs and Daiya cheese (mmmm, love that Daiya mozzarella!), I was happy to be able to dip the sandwich into some more marinara.  Therese also loved her sandwich, and offered me a taste – I found it very nice.

The one thing that was a bit hard to take was the price: two sandwiches and two teas cost us about 30 dollars.  I guess that is pretty typical for lunch in the financial district, catering to the financial district work crowd.  But for a local hang-out, I would hope to be able to find some tasty bargains.  Oh well – let’s just say that Terri will probably end up being an occasional treat for us.

And speaking of treats, we finished up by trying a couple of their house-made vegan cupcakes for dessert.  I loved the chocolate with chocolate icing: the chocolate icing was so creamy, and the cake was devil’s food, nice and rich.

Vegan cupcakes for dessert

Vegan cupcakes for dessert

Posted in Dairy-free, Dessert, Lunch, NYC Restaurants, Restaurants, Vegan food | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Living in Alfama: our Lisbon vacation apartment

Living in Alfama

Living in Alfama

On our first day in Lisbon, Portugal, I did something I’ve never done before while on vacation.  I cooked dinner for Therese and me.  This was only possible because we rented an apartment through AirBnB.  What started out as a necessity of sorts – Lisbon has no Hilton hotel (at least not one we could afford), so we explored the alternatives and discovered that renting an apartment might be a good way to go – ended up transforming our trip, adding another dimension to our appreciation of Portuguese culture.

Don’t get me wrong: by the end of that first day, after our overnight flight from New York and an eventful morning and afternoon (more on that in my next post), we were running on fumes, and I would’ve welcomed having a trained restaurant professional prepare our supper.  But we had a plan, which included buying some groceries for our dinner before trudging back to our apartment in Alfama, and giving in to our exhaustion, and we were determined to carry it out.  By then Therese was worse than running on fumes – I could hear her gears crunching – but she was a good sport and I tried to be decisive in my purchases through the veil of my weariness.  We got some onion and bell peppers and a pound or so of prawns from the Pingo Doce supermarket on Rua Graca, and waited for the Tram 28 to take us back down the hill.  We had done it.

Cooking in the Rose Residence kitchen

Cooking in the Rose Residence kitchen

Sauteing prawns over vegetables

Sauteing prawns over vegetables

Our scrumptious dinner of prawns, vegetables and rice

Our scrumptious dinner of prawns, vegetables and rice

Once we got back to the Rose Residence, our lovely apartment in the Alfama neighborhood, I clicked into another gear, and eagerly took on the task of making us our first dinner in Portugal.  The Rosa Residence‘s kitchen is fairly basic, with a huge old aluminum saute pan which works for making any number of dishes.  In this case, it was perfect for sauteing some onions and green and red bell peppers (which had been nicely chopped by Therese in her role as sous chef) with some salt and pepper and coriander and cumin, and then adding our prawns (with their heads on – more on that later) and sauteing them as well.  The finishing touch was adding some leftover vegetable rice dish which had been part of our lunch at O Piteu Restaurant in the Graca neighborhood earlier that day.

I was skeptical about eating prawns (known in Portuguese as “camarões”) with their heads, or even cooking with them.  Yes, I remembered seeing these beasts in paella dishes I had eaten while vacationing in Spain years earlier; but I never quite knew how to handle them.  Eat them shells and all?  That was obviously wrong.  Go through the trouble of taking the shells off?  Seemed like too much trouble.  Thankfully, I can now report that I have figured out the mystery of eating these giant shellfish, and my life is the better for it.  Under Therese’s instruction, I tore the head off, letting the juice drizzle over the rice and vegetables, then peeled the rest of the shells off, then ate the prawn meat, vegetables and rice together.  Wow.  What a nice, rustic, satisfying dish.  I felt my body drawing every milligram of sustenance from this scrumptious dish.

Cooking in an actual kitchen in an actual apartment building in Alfama was only part of our immersion into the neighborhood.  Riding Tram 28, the rickety electric street car that rambles up and down the ancient hills of Lisbon’s most ancient quarter, was another.  And there was much more.  As I continue to share with you the joys of our trip, I will hope to give you a deep taste of what it was about Alfama, and Lisbon, Portugal as a whole, that got into our bones.  Stay tuned, my friends.

Posted in Cooking, Dairy-free, Dinner, Portugal, Travel | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Hello from Portugal

Hello from Portugal

Hello from Portugal

Ok, we’re actually back from Portugal now.  In fact, we have been back for more than a week.  But I wanted to let you see us enjoying our time there, and to start off what will be a lengthy series of posts telling you all about the great fun we had there.  We ate lots of good food there – I wrote out a phrase in Portuguese telling our waiters about my dairy allergy, took it with me everywhere, and all was well.  And we saw lots of great things.  No, let me put that another way: the fibers of our eyeballs were exploded by the splendor and opulence of what we saw.

I will talk a little about what you are going to see in the coming days and weeks, but I also want to let you know that I have lots of non-Portugal-related writing to do in the near future.

For my birthday, which was May 2nd, the day our trip began, I received some new wonderful-looking cookbooks: Food of Portugal by Jean Anderson, Home Made by Ivette Van Boven, Simple to Spectacular: How to Take One Basic Recipe to Four Levels of Sophistication by Jean-Georges Vongerichten & Mark Bittman and Sharon O’Connor’s Italian Intermezzo (Menus and Music).  So don’t be surprised if you see me trying my hand at dairy free versions of the splendid recipes I have been salivating over in those books!

And of course I also have lots to tell you about things going on in my home city of New York.  Of special note for me is that I am moving to the Financial District, about as far downtown as you can get.  As I begin to explore the culinary options down there, I look forward to sharing with you what I find!

Getting back to Portugal, before I conclude this post, I just wanted to share with you some of the subjects you will find in upcoming posts.  I will update this post and link to posts on Portugal, but just keep on coming back to stay up to date!

Living in Alfama: our Lisbon vacation apartment
Lisbon, Day One: unofficial guided tour, lunch at O Piteu
Day Two, Lisbon: National Tile Museum, Fado Museum and Fado at Dragao de Alfama
Day Three: Downtown Lisbon – Baixa and Bairro Alto
Day Four: Decorative Arts Museum, Castelo Sao Jorge, and Lisbon Cathedral
A Day trip to Evora: Evora Cathedral, Church of Sao Joao Evangelista and old Evora University
Day Five, Lisbon: Convento do Carmo, Port Wine Institute and Mosteiro dos Jeronimos
Day one in Porto: Cathedral, Livraria Lello, Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art, dinner at Barao Fladgate
Date two in Porto: Rota do Douro river cruise
Final day in Lisbon and Portugal: Museu de arte antigua, lunch at Concha d’Ouro, Calouste Gulbenkian museum

So that will give you a taste of what is to come!  Some days were so full that I am sure I will have to split the day into more than one post.  Stay tuned!

Posted in Cookbooks, Food writers, Portugal, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Newark Airport’s Grand Central Oyster Bar: great start to our trip

Newark Airport's Grand Central Oyster Bar

Newark Airport’s Grand Central Oyster Bar

For our first anniversary, we planned to make a week-long trip to Lisbon, taking a United flight to Portugal from Newark Airport.  The day we left (yesterday) was actually my birthday, so Therese suggested we get to the airport early and have a bit of birthday dinner before boarding our flight.  Our research led us to choose the airport’s branch of the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar for the dinner.  There had been some recent negative reviews on TripAdvisor and Yelp, but nevertheless I was confident that we would have an enjoyable dinner.

Crab cake sandwich with Baltmore sauce

Crab cake sandwich with Baltmore sauce

I was not disappointed.  Our dozen Tatamagouche oysters from Nova Scotia were lovely, and I followed that up with a very respectable Maryland crab cake sandwich with marinara sauce, as my Maryland-born and bred wife tells me is popular in Baltimore.  I washed it all down with a nice Sam Adams Boston Lager on-tap at the restaurant.

 

Berry Sorbet waffle cone

Berry Sorbet waffle cone

After this nice dinner, I made a casual comment that we should get some ice cream, and after asking our server at the Oyster Bar, we found out that there was a Ben & Jerry’s was not far away.  I was happy to let Therese get an ice cream cone, not really planning to get anything myself (ice cream stands are often a hard place to find dairy free options), so I was thrilled to see that they had a quite enticing Berry Berry Sorbet.  Wow, what an incredible treat (ok, I’m not sure that the waffle cone was dairy free – I took a chance with that, but all worked out fine).

What a great way to start our trip!  Now we are in Lisbon, and I will be posting at least one more story about our trip while we are here.  I will just tell you that we have finished our first day in the city, and we are thrilled.  Stay tuned!

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